Some Singaporeans moan that besides shopping, dining and the movies, there's not a lot you can do in the Lion City. Ignore them. For a first-time visitor, the must-see list can be absorbingly long and there is very little chance that you'll get bored.
You will most likely gravitate first toward the famed retail stretch of Orchard Road. But when you have gotten the shopping out of your system, dump your purchases back at the hotel and head back out to discover the city's real charms. Here are some of the top places where Singaporeans in the know, live and play.
Geylang
Once upon a time, Bugis Street was Singapore's premier red-light district, but the crown has long since passed to Geylang, an atmospheric quarter on
Singapore's east coast that also bristles with period architecture and some of the best local food on the island. You will find grabs of Peranakan, Indian, Malay and regional Chinese standards. Try coconut rice and curry chicken (at Bali Nasi Lemak, 2 Geylang Lorong 15), Kuching kolo mee (spicy noodles with roast pork and prawns, at Soon Seng Coffeeshop, corner Geylang Road and Geylang Loring 17) or lei cha fan, the Hakka favourite of rice, vegetables, tofu and peanuts in tea-based broth (at the 933 Roast Duck Coffeshop, 134 Sims Avenue).
Singapore Botanic Gardens
If you are early and waiting for the shops to open at 11am, and need to kill some time, head out to the Botanic Gardens. It is
Singapore's last remaining green lung and it is a bucolic retreat filled with joggers, dogs and Tai Chi practitioners. Wander through the swaths of virgin rainforest and then take in the National Orchid Garden. When you are done, drop into the 
food court near Tanglin Gate for a traditional local breakfast of soft-boiled eggs, coffe and toast slathered with coconut jam.
Pulau Ubin
If you ever wondered what Singapore was like when its
founder Sir Stanford Raffles first stepped ashore, the leafy island of Pulau Ubin will give you an idea. From Tanah Merah MRT Station, take a cab to Changi Point Ferry Terminal (Changi Village) and then hitch a ten minute boat ride out (return tickets cost just over $3). The 
island's highlight is Chek Jawa, a marine sanctuary of rare sea creatures and wildlife. Because the area's ecosystem is so fragile, visitor numbers are strictly controlled; contact the National Parks Board Ubin Information Kiosk, tel: 6542 4108.
You will most likely gravitate first toward the famed retail stretch of Orchard Road. But when you have gotten the shopping out of your system, dump your purchases back at the hotel and head back out to discover the city's real charms. Here are some of the top places where Singaporeans in the know, live and play.
Geylang
Once upon a time, Bugis Street was Singapore's premier red-light district, but the crown has long since passed to Geylang, an atmospheric quarter on
Singapore's east coast that also bristles with period architecture and some of the best local food on the island. You will find grabs of Peranakan, Indian, Malay and regional Chinese standards. Try coconut rice and curry chicken (at Bali Nasi Lemak, 2 Geylang Lorong 15), Kuching kolo mee (spicy noodles with roast pork and prawns, at Soon Seng Coffeeshop, corner Geylang Road and Geylang Loring 17) or lei cha fan, the Hakka favourite of rice, vegetables, tofu and peanuts in tea-based broth (at the 933 Roast Duck Coffeshop, 134 Sims Avenue).
Singapore Botanic Gardens
If you are early and waiting for the shops to open at 11am, and need to kill some time, head out to the Botanic Gardens. It is
Singapore's last remaining green lung and it is a bucolic retreat filled with joggers, dogs and Tai Chi practitioners. Wander through the swaths of virgin rainforest and then take in the National Orchid Garden. When you are done, drop into the 
food court near Tanglin Gate for a traditional local breakfast of soft-boiled eggs, coffe and toast slathered with coconut jam.Pulau Ubin
If you ever wondered what Singapore was like when its
founder Sir Stanford Raffles first stepped ashore, the leafy island of Pulau Ubin will give you an idea. From Tanah Merah MRT Station, take a cab to Changi Point Ferry Terminal (Changi Village) and then hitch a ten minute boat ride out (return tickets cost just over $3). The 
island's highlight is Chek Jawa, a marine sanctuary of rare sea creatures and wildlife. Because the area's ecosystem is so fragile, visitor numbers are strictly controlled; contact the National Parks Board Ubin Information Kiosk, tel: 6542 4108.
Chinatown Heritage Centre
Apart from the visits to the newly minted Peranakan Museam (tel:6332 7591), or the gloomy Asian Civilisations Museum (tel: 6332 7798), and if you do only one cultural thing during your visit to Singapore, it must be a tour of the unheralded Chinatown Heritage Centre (6325 2878), where entire rooms, kitchens and street scenes from the late 19th century and early 20th century have been faithfully recreated.
Electric Dreams
Tokyo may have the latest gadgets, but Singapore has the widest range, and luckily for the time-pressed shopper, they're all clustered in massive multi-storey emporiums. Handy-cams, portable DVD players, mobile phones, hi-tech cameras, MP3 players and laptops in just about every imaginable configuration are all up for grabs at Funan Digitalife Mall (tel:6336 8327), and Sim Lim Square (tel: 6332 5839). The prices are usually about 10%-20% cheaper than at other commercial outlets. At Sim Lim Square especially, good deals can be had with some serious haggling. Many retailers knock off a few extra dollars if you pay in cash.
Haji Lane
This tiny lane, hidden away in the heart of the Muslim quarter, is a fashionista's dream come true. Pop into Pluck for its jewellery, shabby-chic collection of Austin Powers-inspired cushion covers and a cute ice cream parlour (tel:6396 4048). Afew doors down, Salad (tel:6299 5805), boasts a range of home accessories like laser-cut tablemats and Hong Kong-based Carrie Chau's quirky postcards. If you are feeling peckish, have an authentic Middle Eastern lunch around at the corner café le Caire (tel: 6292 0979).
Jim Thompson
In the 1950s, Dempsey Hill was home to the British army. Today, the former barracks have been transformed into a collection of restaurants, galleries, delis and spas. Jim Thompson (tel: 6475 6088), recently opened a culinary outpost in the neighbourhood, offering wonderful massamam curries and potent cocktails. After dinner, head up the hill for a cocktail at Magarits's (tel: 6471 3228).
Zouk
Apart from the visits to the newly minted Peranakan Museam (tel:6332 7591), or the gloomy Asian Civilisations Museum (tel: 6332 7798), and if you do only one cultural thing during your visit to Singapore, it must be a tour of the unheralded Chinatown Heritage Centre (6325 2878), where entire rooms, kitchens and street scenes from the late 19th century and early 20th century have been faithfully recreated.
Electric Dreams
Tokyo may have the latest gadgets, but Singapore has the widest range, and luckily for the time-pressed shopper, they're all clustered in massive multi-storey emporiums. Handy-cams, portable DVD players, mobile phones, hi-tech cameras, MP3 players and laptops in just about every imaginable configuration are all up for grabs at Funan Digitalife Mall (tel:6336 8327), and Sim Lim Square (tel: 6332 5839). The prices are usually about 10%-20% cheaper than at other commercial outlets. At Sim Lim Square especially, good deals can be had with some serious haggling. Many retailers knock off a few extra dollars if you pay in cash.
Haji Lane
This tiny lane, hidden away in the heart of the Muslim quarter, is a fashionista's dream come true. Pop into Pluck for its jewellery, shabby-chic collection of Austin Powers-inspired cushion covers and a cute ice cream parlour (tel:6396 4048). Afew doors down, Salad (tel:6299 5805), boasts a range of home accessories like laser-cut tablemats and Hong Kong-based Carrie Chau's quirky postcards. If you are feeling peckish, have an authentic Middle Eastern lunch around at the corner café le Caire (tel: 6292 0979).
Jim ThompsonIn the 1950s, Dempsey Hill was home to the British army. Today, the former barracks have been transformed into a collection of restaurants, galleries, delis and spas. Jim Thompson (tel: 6475 6088), recently opened a culinary outpost in the neighbourhood, offering wonderful massamam curries and potent cocktails. After dinner, head up the hill for a cocktail at Magarits's (tel: 6471 3228).
Zouk
Despite its prim, strait-laced reputation, Singapore's nightlife is actually quite racy, though compared to Barcelona and London, it all ends quite early (around 3am). After nearly two decades, Zouk (tel:6738 2988), still rules the party roost. It's a strobe-lit, trance-thumping, rambling warren of dance floors, figure-hugging outfits, swagger and seasoned moves. For many of its pretty young hipsters, it's a rite of passage.
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